Alaska blog -3 posted 6/26/24

6/21/24

I opted out of Tek Campground in Denali NP a day early. 

Tek campsite

There aren’t any hiking trails in the area. Since I had already done 5 miles RT outbound on the road and had taken the bus as far as inbound as one can go, i decided to move on. The bus is the only way to see the interior of the Park from Tek Campground to the closed section of the road. We didn’t see ant wildlife except two bears from a distance, one is pictured below. The scenery is awesome, a number of people got off the bus at various spots to walk the road, I chose not to do anymore road hiking.

The next day, I had a relaxing morning, refilled the water tank in the camper, got some steps in and headed out. I stopped at a few roadside views including Mountain View trail head, where I hiked an easy 0.7 mile trail thru the historic camp where visitors, circa early 1900s, would stay in canvas cabins. Nothing is left in this beautiful meadow indicating there had ever been a camp. It must have been quite the experience to ride a stage coach to this meadow and then “camp” with staff handling all the meals.

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I returned to the parking lot had lunch and enjoyed a leisurely drive to Ryan Creek mercantile store for a much needed shower, ice cream and a 12 pack of assorted local IPA beer. The shower was well with the $5 for a 10 minute, fully adjustable hot shower. I ran in to a couple from Massachusetts driving a Ford 250 with a FWC Hawk. 

Hawk next to the Alum Cab rental (pic)

This should give you a good idea of the size difference between the units.

I also talked to a distressed couple with a flat tire on a rental car, they with originally from MA and RI but now live in Denver. Not much I could do except drive back to the couple in the Hawk from MA and ask them if they had a tire plug kit. They did, so I told them where the couple in need were parked, asked if they would help and they headed off to find them.

I hung out in the day use area, posted the previous blog, had a beer, then headed back to the gravel pull out where I slept the night before entering DNP, for the night.

I learned a valuable Alaska lesson when I got there. Just because the rain stopped and the sun comes out, it doesn’t mean you won’t get rained on 30 minutes later while cooking dinner. I was able to quickly deploy the awning and continue cooking. It really poured buckets but the awning kept me nice and dry. My Batwing awning would not have been as easy to deploy in the rain.

On Saturday, 6/22/24, i left the gravel parking area and headed to the Denali Hwy. Fuel at the intersection was $4.99 a gallon, I topped off, grabbed a coffee and turned left onto the Denali Hwy. A few miles down the road, there was quite the grouping of RVs, cars trucks, easy Up awnings and lots of people. I stopped and learned that today there was a 135 mile run the length of the road. I didn’t see many people, and those I saw were walking. But, shit, most of them had already come more than 100 miles.

At one point down the road I pulled over at a random creek and flipped a few flies for awhile, I saw fish, they saw me and needless to say, I was not successful. I drove thru the BLM campground at Brushkana River but didn’t stay. The campground is heavily wooded, and loaded with mosquitoes. A couple of miles down the road, I found a nice open spot, high on a ridge to camp, with 360 degree views of mountains. 

Campsite 1 on Denali Hwy

After a late lunch and organizing my fly fishing gear for the next day, I headed down a two track trail from camp. Even though I had an air horn, bear spray, music playing on my phone and a .357 revolver on my hip, I wimped out after a half mile or so and headed back to camp. The brush is hip to waist high and I decided I would never see a bear unless it was on the trail. I even blasted the airhorn once just to let any bears know I was there.

Many years ago when I was writing for Escapees Magazine, I coined the term “geezer backpacking” long before “overlanding” was a term. So, I’m geezer backpacking in this rental unit now. You really don’t have to leave the gravel road much more than 20 yards to be alone. By 4pm, there were very few cars driving on the road and it was completely quiet. So far I would not have needed a truck to travel the Denali Hwy, but it was nice to have it to pull up a steep shoulder into my site. A SUV would have made it easily, but I like trucks, just for the added clearance and confidence. 

The next morning, Sunday, I headed out, stopped a few places to fish, no luck, but its just nice fishing someplace as pretty as it is here.

I had been wondering how many days I would need to carry my trash with me and suddenly I came upon a trash transfer station. Perfect

Transfer station

About 1 o’clock I saw a sign for the Alpine Creek Lodge, open year round 24 hours 7 days a week, food, bar and lodging. I drove in and just as I entered the porch, I met a gentleman from Texes who was there on a Grizzly Bear hunt. Although, I have no problem with people hunting for food, I do have a problem with trophy hunting, however, not being judgmental, we talked about travel. The guy, 85 years old, evidently had some bucks, he had been all over the world, and was still active. Putting aside his hobby, I have to admit he was an interesting guy. After about 20 minutes, I pulled away from him, and headed inside for a $20 burger and a $9 beer, the view and wifi were free.

Alpine creek lodge

I drove on down the road to a larger river to try my luck. The current was fast but there was an eddy that looked “fishy”, no luck. but what a spot. Thought about spending the night, but decided to seek higher ground to catch a breeze, a view and try to get away from the mosquitos.

Regardless of what some might say, the mosquitos are not large enough to carry away a small child. 

View from Campsite #2 on Denali Hwy 

I’ve been in Alaska a week now and except for the National Park, I have not paid to camp. The Denali Hwy has been much smoother than people and guide books have stated. The posted speed limit has been 40-50 mph on the gravel, I crossed onto some sort of made man road surface which is much rougher than the gravel shortly after the lodge, with quite a few potholes, so I was wishing to be back on the gravel. Needless to say, even with fishing, sight seeing, talking to strangers, I made much better time than anticipated, so will probably be off this road on Monday.

Here is the inside of the rental unit. It's a great place to escape the mosquitos, and well ventilated.

6/24/24, Monday, left camp early and stopped at Glacier Lake. It was 3/4 mile hike, saw fresh moose print, and fish rising on the lake. Fished for an hour or so, tossed dry flies, and then a wooly bugger. No luck, but what a beautiful spot.

Shortly thereafter I came upon the McLaren Lodge, stopped for coffee and a danish, pictures will be in next blog, Then around lunch time, I stopped at the Tangle Lakes Lodge for pizza and more coffee, with the idea of getting to the McCarthy Hwy, since it was starting to rain. 

After stopping at the Kenny Lake Mercantile to fuel and do laundry, I headed up the McCarthy Hwy and camped at a parking area for Silver Lake around 9pm Monday night.

It's now Wednesday morning, and I am behind on my blogging, so the next installment will be my adventures on the McCarthy Hwy and the town of McCarthy.

Stay tuned