Big Bend NP Part 4

 BBNP part 4    

Monday, 2/26/24

It cooled off nicely during the night and it was mid 50s when I woke up. After breakfast I went for a leisurely walk around the campground and did the short nature trail to the Rio Grande River overlook. 

Rio Grande Village Campground and surrounding area from View Point

                                                            "Trail Store"

Along the way I passed at least 10 “illegal” Mexican Trail stores. The Mexican Nationals cross the river and place hand made crafts for sale with a lock box next to the trails located close to the river.

There are signs at the visitor center saying it's illegal to buy these items, but obviously the Park Service and Border patrol turn a blind eye towards it. All they would need to do is sweep everything up a few days in a row and the loss incurred would probably end the operations. I’m glad they don’t, there seems to be a symbiotic relationship on this section of the border. Not only on a local interpersonal relationship, but also higher up. Not to long ago, the Mexican government formed the Maderas Del Carmen Protected Area south of the Rio Grande and that, combined with Big Bend National Park, protects more than two million acres of habitat. That does not include the Big Bend Ranch State Park to the West nor the Black Gap Wildlife Management Area to the North. Now there is a movement to make a large portion of BBNP a designated wilderness.

Rio Grande Village has a store with adjustable temperature showers, 5 minutes for $2, a laundry, fuel and propane fill station. There are RV hookups in an extension of the parking lot for RVs. The Rio Grande Valley Campground, where I stayed, has no hookups, but they have restrooms with flush toilets, dishwashing sinks, water spigots, and trash. Wildlife, in addition to the many birds, include cows from Mexico and a herd of Havalinas.  

                                                                Havalinas

I spent the morning relaxing and getting organized, fueled up at $3.59 at the Rio Grand Village store, and then headed out on River Road to Mariscal Mine. The road is recommended for high clearance 4WD, and it's a 19 mile, 1 1/2 hour drive, one way to the mine. Cinnabar ore was discovered here, circa1900, and refined into Quicksilver or Mercury. The mine had its boom and bust periods until it finally closed in 1943, which was one year before BBNP was formed. The refined Mercury was placed in flasks each weighing 76 pounds. Two flasks, one per side, were loaded onto mules and carried to the rail head at Marfa. The bricks and structure remain fairly intact because everything is contaminated with Mercury and therefore very toxic.

Tuesday, 2/27/24

I hit the road at about 7:15 am, planning a relaxing 289 mile drive to Guadalupe Mt NP (GUMO). I stopped for breakfast in Marathon, then at the Prada Store road art exhibit, had lunch in Van Horn and arrived about 2:30 pm, MDT at GUMO. 

It was 64 degrees with 25 mph winds gusting to 40 mph. The camp host, Nancy, (seriously), stopped by and told me they were expecting gusts up to 70 mph tonight and I could do whatever I needed to do, regarding parking to feel safe. I told her I wasn’t worried, I had been here before with big winds, if need be, I’ll drop the top and sleep curled up on the couch.

I decided to stay out of the wind in Enzo and catch up on my blogging, it wasn't cold but the wind really wasn't pleasant for walking, it was tough enough walking to the restroom.

During the night the wind gusted and rocked Enzo, it reminded me of sleeping on my parent’s boat in RI when I was a kid. By morning, the wind had died, some smoke moved in and the temperature was 38 degrees.

Wednesday, after breakfast, I walked down to the Visitor Center and purchased a paperback novel, probably the first time in over ten years I actually paid for a paperback, but I was finished with the three books I brought with me and I needed another. Then it was back to Enzo to pack my day pack and hike the Devil’s Hall Trail, 4.6 miles round trip. I was back at Enzo at 2pm and it was 38 degrees. There is a 25% chance of snow tonight.

The Devil's Staircase, which leads to The Devil's Hall

                                                                The Devil's Hall

Thursday, I woke to fog, 31 degrees and snow, I closed Enzo, and hit the highway and headed home. The fog eventually cleared and the drive was uneventful.

Overall, it was a great trip. 

At some point I'll post about my plans for Alaska. Short version: Fly into Anchorage, rent an overland camper on a Toyota Tundra, travel for 23 days, fly back to Denver.

Tight Lines and safe travels